Crossing the High Atlas via the Tizi n’Tichka pass, discovering the ksar of Ait Ben Haddou in the midday light, then strolling through Ouarzazate, the “gateway to the desert”: this is one of the most spectacular days you can experience from Marrakech. It is also one of the longest. Well organised, with an early start and a driver who knows the road, it is nonetheless a stress-free day. Here is our complete guide.
The trip in figures
- Distance: about 190 km from Marrakech to Ait Ben Haddou, a little more to Ouarzazate.
- Driving time: about 4 hours each way including stops.
- Total duration: a day of around 12 hours.
- Highest point: the Tizi n’Tichka pass, at about 2,260 metres.
- For whom: travellers interested in architecture, mountain scenery and cinema who cannot spend several days in the desert.
The Tizi n’Tichka road
The national road linking Marrakech to Ouarzazate is one of the most beautiful in the country. After the Haouz plain, it zigzags up through forests of holm oak and juniper, then past Berber villages of red earth clinging to the slopes. At the pass, above 2,200 metres, the air is crisp and the view opens onto both sides of the Atlas. The descent to the south reveals a completely different world: mineral rock, oases and the first ksour.
Your driver stops at the best viewpoints without rushing. If you suffer from motion sickness, sit in the front and let us know: the road has many bends.
Ait Ben Haddou, the legendary ksar
A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987, Ait Ben Haddou is a group of fortified houses and kasbahs made of rammed earth, stacked on a hill above the Ounila river. A former caravan stop between the Sahara and Marrakech, it has become a sought-after film set: major international productions, from historical epics to fantasy series, have shot famous scenes here.
The visit is on foot. You cross the river by a footbridge or stepping stones depending on the season, then climb the alleys to the fortified communal granary crowning the hill. The panorama over the valley, palm trees and mountains is superb. A few families still live in the ksar and open their homes to visitors; local artists paint typical watercolours with tea and saffron. Allow one to one and a half hours for the visit, followed by lunch in one of the restaurants with a view.
Ouarzazate, the gateway to the desert
Half an hour from Ait Ben Haddou, Ouarzazate is the main town of the south. Two visits stand out:
- The film studios: discover the sets of famous films, from Egyptian temples to ancient palaces. A fun visit, especially with children.
- The Taourirt kasbah: the former residence of the powerful Glaoui family, with rooms decorated with zellige tiles and painted ceilings.
Depending on the time and your energy, your driver suggests one or the other, or both, before heading back around 3:30 pm.
Should you do the return trip in one day?
This is the question to ask yourself honestly. The return trip in one day lets you see the essentials without changing hotels, but it means about eight hours in the car. There are two alternatives:
- Spend the night in Ouarzazate or Ait Ben Haddou and return the next day, possibly via the Telouet kasbah on a spectacular secondary road.
- Continue to the desert with our three-day tour, which passes through Ait Ben Haddou before reaching the Merzouga dunes: all the details are in our 3-day Merzouga tour itinerary.
When to go
From October to May, temperatures are ideal for visiting the ksar. In summer, afternoons south of the Atlas are very hot: a very early start is essential. In winter, snow can occasionally close the Tichka pass for a few hours; we always check the road before departure, and the light on the white peaks is then magnificent.
Our tips for a great day
- Wear comfortable shoes: the alleys of the ksar are steep and stony.
- Bring a hat, sunscreen and water.
- Carry cash for house visits, local guides and handicrafts.
- Use the breaks to stretch your legs: your driver stops as often as needed.
Book your trip
Our private Ait Ben Haddou and Ouarzazate day trip includes pick-up at your hotel or near your riad, an air-conditioned vehicle and a driver experienced on mountain roads. The programme adapts to your pace: more time at the ksar, the film studios or not, an extra photo stop at the pass. To discover the region in detail, see the Ouarzazate and Ait Ben Haddou page, and to compare with other trips, our guide to the best day trips from Marrakech.
